Sunday 22 February 2009

Dickens House Museum

Website: http://www.dickensmuseum.com

Today I visited the Dickens House Museum near Russell Square. I'd seen the signpost in Russell Square pointing to the mysterious Dickens House Museum for years before but only managed to visit it today.

The museum is at 48 Doughty Street, a house where famed author Charles Dickens lived. His career was just taking off when he lived here and it was here that he wrote Oliver Twist and Nicholas Nichleby before moving house to a bigger place after he'd become rich.

To enter the museum you have to ring a doorbell and be buzzed in. I entered, walked through to the rear of the house and bought my £4 student ticket in the shop. I was told that the exhibition was in no particular order and I should just wander around.

First stop was the dining room at the front of the ground floor:
This is apparently where Charles Dickens hosted hundreds of fun dinner parties with famous actors and writers of the day. There were lots of pieces of furniture he owned on display (including, for example, two monogrammed knife holders). I've only read two Dickens stories so I wasn't sure if I was under-prepared for a museum about him. As it turned out, the museum focussed fairly squarely on his life and not so much on his works.

The next room had a lot of portraits and photographs of Dickens and his family. He had 9 children and an affair - quite an eventful family life... There was an interesting sequence of about 20 photos showing Dickens from young to old. There was also an interesting stereographic image of him which I tried to view (unsuccessfully) in 3D:
After this room I went to the first floor for a quick look around. Here I learnt that Dickens wrote so quickly that he didn't have time to plan the plots in detail - he just figured it out as he went. I also learnt that his books were first published in monthly instalments:These monthly instalments are prized by collectors and it sounded like the stories were written month-by-month, sometimes having reader's comments incorporated into the plots. Some "desk furniture" that he used was on display and included a china monkey which was one of Dickens's favourite pieces:I had a quick glance at the front study before rushing down to the basement to catch the start of a half hour long film about the life of Charles Dickens. I learnt that when he was about 10 years old his family fell into bad debt and were put in a debtor's prison. He got a job in a factory labelling boot dye and went to visit them in prison. It sounded pretty grim but, or so the film suggested, it was these bad experiences that enabled him to write such great stories.

He was first published under the pseudonym Boz before writing for a newspaper and then publishing the Pickwick Papers. These became a great success and he became famous. He kept up a high output of work and, by the time he died, was hailed as a national hero.

After the film I looked at the top floor but I was getting a little bit tired of the museum. All the information was written in little snippets around the walls - it was quite an effort to put the whole story together. Important pieces of information were just as prominent as dull/unimportant pieces (e.g. "This clock belonged to a friend of Charles Dickens" vs "Dickens campaigned for...").

One highlight I suppose was seeing his Reading Table. This was carefully preserved in a dimly lit room and was designed by Dickens himself. He used it in public readings of his work which he was paid enormous amounts of money for.
I took a brief look outside at the nice garden before leaving.Summary: Interesting bits of history about the life and times of Charles Dickens. Could do with some more general introductory material. Makes you realise that people who achieve great success almost always work really really hard to do so.

The list (number six)

Here's an updated list with a few items crossed-out and a few added:
  • Tour round Buckingham Palace
  • Go up the BT Tower for the view
  • Cycle around Richmond park
  • Sneak into the fancy hotels - Hilton, Savoy etc
  • Go to all the museums in London
  • Go to all the major art museums in London
  • Have a drink in the ice-bar off Regent Street
  • Do the sing-along sound of music at the Prince Charles cinema
  • Watch a film at the Electric cinema in Notting Hill
  • Watch a film at a Leicester Square cinema
  • Watch an IMAX film near Waterloo
  • Go to a casino
  • Explore the new O2 centre at the Millennium Dome
  • Tour round the BBC TV centre and BBC Broadcasting House
  • Watch a live, well-attended debate in Parliament (e.g. Prime Ministers questions)
  • Go out for an artsy night out in the east-end.
  • Shop at Petticoat Lane market
  • Go on the rides at the London dungeons
  • Sit in on a Sotheby's auction
  • Eat at a traditional pie 'n' mash shop
  • Tour round Lord's cricket ground
  • Tour round Wembley stadium
  • Go to the London wetland centre
  • Visit Chelsea Physic Garden
  • Get into London fashion week
  • Tour around City Hall
  • Tour around Tower Bridge
  • Go to the tennis at Wimbledon
  • See some plays
  • Ride home in a rickshaw
  • Eat at some famous restaurants
  • Visit the hidden-away nature reserve behind St. Pancras station
  • Visit a big mosque, big synagogue, other big places of worship
  • Use an "isolation tank" near London Bridge
  • Get a free Hare Krishna vegetarian meal
  • Go to the the Jazz Cafe in Camden
  • Go to some jazz club I've heard about in Soho
  • Eat a meal in one of the touristy Leicester square steak houses
  • Tour around Battersea power station
  • Explore Heathrow Terminal 5
  • Tour round Albert Hall and Albert Memorial
  • Tour round Chiswick's Fuller's brewery
  • Tour round Wandsworth's Young's Brewery
  • Eat at the restaurant at the top of Tate Modern
  • Visit an exhibition at Earls Court and Kensington Olympia
  • Visit a city farm
  • Tour round Thames barrier
  • Visit a talk at the Royal Geographical Society

Sunday 15 February 2009

Tour round BBC Broadcasting House

Website: http://www.bbc.co.uk/tours/details/details_bh.shtml

Today I went on a tour around BBC Broadcasting House. Unfortunately I forgot to take my camera with me.

To go on a tour you have to book in advance so I already had my £4.40 student ticket with me when I set off. I arrived just before my 2.10pm tour and was told to take a seat with the other people in the group. I sat in the plush waiting area and started to look through the BBC in-house magazine: Ariel. One particularly interesting story was by a novelist trying to encourage the BBC to do more to promote science. He said "I know only a tiny bit of science and nobody holds it against me... Maybe they should". Well... I hold it against you. But anyway...

At the start time for the tour we were welcomed by our two tour guides: Sarah and Adrian. They checked us off a list and then got us to write our names on a sheet of paper "in case there is an evacuation". We were then taken back outside by Adrian and stood on the steps of All Souls Church to face the Broadcasting House building.

He ran through the history of the nice art-deco building from it's official opening in 1932 to the present redevelopment. Above the main entrance stands a prominent statue of Ariel and Prospero from the Shakespeare play the Tempest:This was sculpted by Eric Gill (who also made the typeface for the current BBC logo: Gill Sans) and there were suggestions that it was really depicting God and Son. The sculptor apparently told people that there was a secret in the work that would not be discovered until the building was knocked down. Well, too bad for him but during some restoration work they put a camera behind the statue of Prospero and found a hidden carving of a woman's face. Weird.The building has been likened to a top hat (with the rim being the pavement) or a ship sailing down Regent Street.

We finished looking at the outside and then went back to reception. Here we got to see the original octagonal BBC logo made as a mosaic in the floor. Originally the BBC stood for British Broadcasting Company before it became British Broadcasting Corporation. I'm not too clear on the difference. We then set off through security, to the toilets and then on our way...

First stop was the Radio Theatre. This sits in the centre of the building with offices wrapped around its outside. In the past few years it's been renovated to make it more accessible. This involved raising the floor by about 2 metres. We all sat in theatre-style seats and looked at the stage which had a few plain chairs on it. Everywhere microphones and speakers hung from the ceiling. We were told that most radio shows are pre-recorded now and a lot of them are recorded in the Radio Theatre. We saw a photo of the theatre being used as a bomb shelter during World War II - with men and women separated by a big curtain at night time. The building was actually hit by a bomb in WWII during a news announcement...

The next stop was by the (renovated but original) lifts. Here we saw a huge tapestry that had been given to the BBC by France to honour the BBC for it's help to the French resistance. We then visited the plush Council Chamber where all the BBC's decisions are made.

We then took the stairs up to some recording studios. This was my first time inside a recording studio and I was impressed. Although it wasn't as flashy as I'd imagined (if anything it was a bit cramped when all our group was in there) it looked like it was used by people who know how to do their job well. The walls were designed to avoid reverberating sounds and there were synchronised clocks everywhere you looked so people can announce the correct time-check on air. The studio we were in is where "Woman's Hour" and "You and Yours" are recorded. We visited another recording studio (where "Poetry Please" is recorded) before arriving at a bigger studio that had a piano and "enough space for a small orchestra".

We then went to the top of the building and out onto a little roof terrace. This was really nice and had a fantastic view. We were told about how the BBC was in Phase One of the redevelopment of the area. This included, for example, a Persian and Arabic broadcasting building next door. Unfortunately it began to rain so we went back inside and were told in more detail about the "Breathing Sculpture" on the roof:This was made as a memorial to all the journalists and crew that have been killed in war-reporting. The text that spirals down the cone says:

life turns and turns on the crystal glass
breathing in our body

silence is a voice, our voice
silence is a body, our body

life turns and turns on the crystal glass
breathing in our body

I invite you to breathe
I invite you to listen to the silence

We then went down to the most fun part of the tour. Our group got to record a mini radio drama. Six volunteers were chosen to either read parts of a script or do electronic or physical sound-effects (e.g. corks popping or gongs bonging). The story of the drama was about a couple breaking down on a dark country road and walking to a spooky country house for help. The butler ominously welcomes them in, gives them champagne and then says "It's time for dinner... and the dinner is YOU!".

We watched them perform it and then listened to it again. It sounded impressively professional on the played back version - apart from some mix-ups with the sound effects and some badly delivered lines. The star of the show was the "Annoucer/Butler" played by a deep-voiced German man. He sounded very professional and really delivered his lines well.

We then returned to the reception, returned our customer satisfaction forms and departed.

Summary: Very interesting - would recommend to anyone who's ever listened to the BBC radio stations.

Thursday 12 February 2009

The ice bar off Regent Street

Website: http://www.belowzerolondon.com/icebar

Last night TF and I visited the Absolut Ice Bar on Heddon Street. We both tried to go there a few years ago but were turned away because we hadn't booked in advance. This time we were successful.

Our reserved timeslot was from 9.30pm to 10.10pm. We arrived at the chaotic queue just before 9.30pm and bought two tickets for £12.50 each. We joined a queue/holding area with our fellow drinkers and then - at 9.30 - the bouncers started letting people in.

Before entering you stand in front of a bouncer, they take a fur-lined insulating cape off a hook, raise it above your head and shove it down over you like you're a foot going into a sock. You're then ushered into the Ice Bar...

The "air-lock" is lined with fur and when you emerge into the bar it's like stepping into another world. The air is cold, the light is funky blue, the music throbs and everywhere you look the ice gleams.
Giddy with the novelty of the bar we didn't know what to do. We had a closer look at the ice. All the walls were made from ice, there were "tables" and "seats" made from huge blocks of clear ice (the seats had fur on top) and even the bar was made of ice. Apparently the ice is all transported from the Torne River in Jukkasjarvi, Sweden. It certainly was nice to look at - with natural fissures and air-pockets:Slowly we realised the bar was getting busy. Our tickets entitled us to one drink so we shoved our way to the front and chose some cocktails from the menu:I had a Absolute Red Garnet which was quite nice. The drinks were served in an ice "glass" which became very cold to hold as the 40 minutes went on. Luckily our capes came with a pair of gloves attached on elastic.
As we drank our cocktails we walked around the room and I was a little disappointed that it wasn't as big as I'd imagined. I got the (accurate) impression that the room was just like a big freezer - like a meat locker turned drinking venue.

We took lots of photos of each other posing with the ice and watched everyone else taking lots of photos too. The other 20 or so people were all young and looked like they were out for a big night even though it was a Wednesday.

After a while of trying to look through the walls or chip the drinks glasses into pieces we got a bit bored and cold. We built the finished glasses up into a pyramid:
Extra drinks cost £6 each so we gave them a miss. It turned out that 40 minutes in the ice bar was about the right amount of time - any longer would have been a chore. At 10.10pm we were told to leave and, after having our capes quickly stripped off, we stepped out into the normal world again.

Summary: A magical but expensive experience.

Sunday 8 February 2009

Tour around the Royal Albert Hall

Website: http://www.royalalberthall.com

Today I went on the 10.30am tour around the Royal Albert Hall in South Kensington. There are multiple tours everyday but today there were only 2 in the morning because "Cirque du Soleil" was showing in the afternoon.

I've been to quite a few shows at the Albert Hall (including a Cream reunion concert, ballet, the proms, indoor tennis... even my graduation!) so I was looking forward to learning a bit of "insider information".

The tour started promptly at 10.30am. About 15 of us were hanging around Door 12 when we were greeted by Helen who's worked at the Albert Hall for 10 years. She asked everyone if we'd been to the venue before and where we were from. There were people form Australia, Sweden, Germany and, slightly less exotic, Bedford. Helen explained that we were not allowed to take photos and then led us away from the Box Office into the circular corridors on ground level.

Lining the corridors are photos of famous or unusual performances at the Albert Hall and, as she led us up to see the boxes, she explained that sport has been very big in the venue's history. They've had tennis (during the Masters Tennis)basketball, sumo wrestling and even a marathon (In 1909 two athletes tried to run 500 laps of the inner corridor on a bedding of coconut leaves. Neither made it!).

We were led upstairs to sit in the boxes overlooking the stage. Here we had a rest in the chairs and were taught some history of the hall. It was opened in 1871 and was designed to be an amphitheatre with a roof. The roof ended up causing enormous difficulties however because it echoed the sound around the performance space. This was good if a choir was singing but bad if there was a soloist or pianist. People would apparently say "It's good value for money at the Albert Hall - you hear the concert once and then again 2 or 3 seconds later...". The modern solution to these echoing difficulties was put in place in 1969. It involves a host of upsidedown "mushrooms" suspended from the roof: These scatter the sound waves all around the room before they can get to the roof. Any sounds that do get to the roof then bounce back into the mushrooms and are dampened down.

The hall hosts around 360 events every year and has a audience capacity of 4,500 to 6,000 depending on the event.

We then left the boxes we were in an took a sneak peak at the Queen's box. This was bought by Queen Victoria and has a prominent crown displayed above it. It is where royalty sit when they come to an event at the Albert Hall but, when there's no royals attending an event, the box is used by people that work for the Queen (e.g. stable hands at Windsor, secretaries at Buckingham Palace etc). It seems like it's a perk of the job.

This Queen's box (which is always called the Queen's box even when a king is monarch because it was Queen Victoria who bought it) opened up the whole issue of ownership of seats. To raise money to build the Albert Hall they sold a few hundred seats for £100 each. The lease for these was 999 years (!) and the seats were passed down through families. In the 137 years the Albert Hall's been around a lot of the seats have, however, ended up being bought as investments by companies and banks. They are occasionally sold by closed auction in the Times but prices are high. One couple on the tour said they saw 5 seats sell for £100,000 a few years ago. If you do own a seat you get to go to pretty much any event you like...

We then visited the Royal Retiring Room where royalty come to relax before and after a show. This has portraits of all the leading royals since Queen Victoria. Here we were told that the Albert Hall was built as a memorial to Prince Albert by his widow Queen Victoria. Albert had conceived of turning South Kensington into a centre of culture and science. After his death the plans were followed through and the Royal Albert Hall, Royal College of Art, Imperial College, Royal College of Music, National Geographical Society, Science Museum, Natural History Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum were built. This vast complex was nicknamed "Albertopolis".

We then climbed up to the "Gallery" - a standing-only viewing area that rings around the top of the auditorium. This is fairly plain now but used to be the social area with paintings on display (hence "the Gallery"). We took a quick look out at the closed-off balcony before descending the stairs again. We'd been asking so many questions we were in danger of making Helen late for her 11.30am tour. She led us back to Door 12 and said goodbye.

The hall used to be powered by steam and the chimney outside is the disused (but listed) steam vent:Summary: Interesting glimpse into the history of the place. Could do with some more "behind-the-scenes" restricted access.

Saturday 7 February 2009

The Guards Museum

Website: http://www.theguardsmuseum.com

Today I visited the museum that inspired this blog. The museum is located next to St. James's Park and, as I arrived, I was expecting a museum about soldiers and warfare. I was partly right.

I bought my cheap £2 student ticket from a softly-spoken grey-haired gentleman who waved me into the museum. I was immediately confronted by huge displays of medals and uniforms:I tried to read the information cards to understand what I was looking at but they assumed a level of background knowledge that I didn't have (e.g. the technical meaning of battalions, colours, decorations etc). As I made my way around the museum I found longer information signs which gave the necessary background.

It turns out that the museum is all about a very particular type of soldier: the Royal Foot Guards. More specifically the five different types of Guards: Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards. I finally understood that these were the same guards as in the "changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace". I think of these as mainly a tourist attraction but the Guard's regiments are proper soldiers too and there are some currently in action in Afghanistan.

The Scots and Coldstream guards were founded in the English civil war (the Scots guards were first assembled in Scotland and then marched for over a month south to London!). These soldiers used pikes to spear enemy cavalry charges. The pikes were long wooden sticks with a metal point on the end which was used to pierce horses and their riders. Rather gruesome was the mention of a "blood rag" which was tied around the stick to "stop blood running down the shaft and making it slippy". Ugh! (The blood rag was later "formalised" to a tassel).

Over the centuries other regiments were added (Grenadier, Irish, Welsh - in that order I think) by various kings and queens. The museum charted the history of the regiments and the different battles they've fought in. The timeline reminded me of the bloody history of Europe - with countries declaring war on each ceaselessly. There were lots of paintings of battles and uniforms through the ages: even including the battles fought in Egypt: Eventually I made it through the extensive rooms to the 20th century where The Great War, World War II and beyond were discussed:I was interested to see their display about the current regiments in action in Afghanistan:This formed an striking contrast to the ceremonial aspects of the uniforms, the "colours", the drumming parades etc. After a quick look around at the photos of the stiff-upper-lipped military leaders, I left.
Summary: A bit too specific for a day out unless you know someone who was in the Guards.